My current main camera is the Sony A7RIII. As a backup I own the previous model, the A7RII. Both camera's are full frame system cameras and offer 42 Megapixel so large prints are possible without much quality loss. I have some photos printed large and you have to see it to believe it.
I choose the Sony mirrorless system because of its advantages. The dynamic range is impressive, believe me. The eye-AF (autofocus on the eyes in continuous mode) is by far one of the best inventions for portrait photography.
They are also very light and can shoot in complete silence in certain conditions. (A7RIII in burst mode, A7RII only one picture at the time)
The EVF (electronic viewfinder) is so fantastic to use. In the early days it was slow, bad resolution but the A7RIII EVF is extremely good.
I camera I have always with me is the Sony RX-100II. Small but the quality it delivers in RAW is just superb.
I also use the Sony FDR-X3000 action cam with remote control.
Lenses (all FE mount)
I mostly shoot with prime lenses because of the quality compared to zoom lenses.
1. Samyang 14 mm 2.8
A great wide angle lens. I have the manual focus version because the AF lens was not available at the time.
2. Sony 28 mm 2.0
This is a great fast and very light lens. I must admit I don't use it often.
3. Samyang 35mm 1.4
A superb quality AF lens. Really great value for money. Very sharp too! Great when you want to photograph more of the surroundings during a model shoot.
4. Sony/Zeiss 55mm 1.8
This little lens is outstanding and very sharp and one of the first lenses for E-mount. One of my favorite lenses. Everyone should own a 50-55 mm lens.
5. Sony 85 mm 1.8
This is a cheap 85mm version compared to the wonderful Sony 85mm 1.4 G master. However this lens also performs really well. It is insanely sharp for the price and a no-brainer. Some professionals would say this lens is for hobbyists and can't be taken seriously. They are wrong. It's good, trust me. BTW, what you use is not important. Only the result of your photo matters.
6. Sony 90 mm G Macro 2.8
My favorite in the studio. It's the second sharpest full frame lens tested on www.dxomark.com
For close up portraits but also half/full body shots this is my lens to go. Really love it. Did I say it is insanely sharp?
7. Samyang 135mm F2.0
Superb manual focus lens. Very sharp and 2.0 aperture. I don't use it that often because I missed some shots because of the manual focus when the model moved. Waiting for a AF version.
1. Sony G 24-105 F4
This is the lens to buy if you only need one lens. It's very sharp for a zoom lens (really) and it performs really well. As a zoom lens I love it. I used it for photographing Gary Numan at the London Royal Albert Hall in London and it did not let me down.
2. Sony G 70-200 F4
Half the price of the 2.8 version which is bigger and heavier but also little better in quality and a stop better. I rarely use this 70-200 lens and I have no need for 2.8. I love the weight and the picture quality. The focus speed is also outstanding. If I need extra reach I switch my camera to cropped mode. 200 mm becomes 300 mm and with the A7R2 & A7R3 you still have 18 Megapixel which is still good for larger prints.
External Camera Monitor.
When shooting tethered is not possible I sometimes use my Feelworld F6 external LCD Monitor. Using a larger screen is attached to a tripod is very helpful during the shooting and for checking the photos on location. At a price of €180 the quality is just outstanding. It is Full HD and supports 4K input. The brightness of this screen is 450cd/m², so still very bright in sunlight though it has a sun hood.
It's connected via HDMI on my Sony A7RIII.
1. Godox AD600 pro
This is a superb TTL flash (or strobe) with 600W power. I recently switched to Godox because the quality of their flashes are outstanding for a very affordable price. The color temperature is very consistant too. For shooting on location I own a second battery. In my studio I use the AC26 ad-ac power adapter.
2. Godox AD200
These are flashes just a tiny bit larger as a normal flash but with double the power (200W, GN60). I also have 2 holders where I can plug 2 AD200's in the back so you get 400W output when needed. Very cool solution.
I also use several light modifiers that are only compatible with the AD200.
3. Godox XT1-S Transmitter (2x)
This is the basic transmitter for above godox equipment. With this I can control the amount of light remotely for all Godox flashes. This one also has a hot shoe for an extra transmitter.
4. Godox X-Pro S
Also a transmitter but with a big lcd screen. More user friendly and prefered.
To many to mention. Umbrella's, beauty dish (silver), Strip lights 180cm,60cm, SMDV 70cm with grid, lastolite triflector MKII, 180cm umbrella soft box, parabolic and a lot more from several brands, Telescope fresnel.
Also several reflection screens, V-flats, color gels are used all the time.
From several brands. Mostly heavy quality C-Stands.
1. Charcoal grey
My favorite background in the studio. I use this most of the time. I just love it and it is easy to add texture afterwards in photoshop. If you want you can make it nearly white or black.
I am a photographer who doesn't like white that much but every photographer should own white background paper. More for clothing shoots.
3. Carnation (kind of pink)
4. Chroma key Green
5. Black Cloth when it really has to be black.
Camera backpack & carry bag
1. Manfrotto mover 50
The best. 2 camera'sand the most important lenses, laptop, ...
All fit. Comfortable to wear too.
2. From several brands. Not worth mentioning.
Manfrotto MT055XPRO3 055 Aluminium + Manfrotto 498RC2 head
Love it. Great quality.
Monopod. Also Manfrotto brand with Manfrotto 234RC head
16GB RAM, I7, 512 SSD, 4K.
Great laptop because it is 4K and covers 100% of the AdobeRGB colors. I only use it on location shooting tethered and for administrative work. The graphic card however is too slow for the 4K resolution. Build quality is not perfect, some dead pixels too. For the price it should be better.
Dell Alienware R6
64 GB RAM, 2X512 SSD + 2TB HD, Geforce GTX1080Ti with 11GB RAM.
Fast and very quiet (when you are working for hours). Great for Photoshop! Love it.
32 inch 4K (81,3 cm diagonal)
74.99 cm x 21.4 cm x 48.26 cm
This screen is HUGE. I really love it. 4K, 99.5 AdobeRGB support. And of course calibrated.
I also use a second dell Full HD 100% sRGB screen for comparison when I am soft proofing.
X-Rite i1Display Pro Colorimeter
This is what I use to calibrate my screens. Works perfectly.
Wacom Intuos Pro medium
No comment. I need this thing. Can't work without it.
This is actually a game pad but I use it for key strokes I am using in Capture One pro, Photoshop and other software. Not available anymore. I have 2 in case one breaks. Als equally important as the wacom tablet.
Synology DS916+ NAS with 10 TB
At the moment still configured as RAID 1 (mirrored) but I can expand when needed.
All of my photos (RAW, PSB, PSD, JPG,...) and capture one files are synchronized (actually copied) to amazon drive as a backup.
An old Canon MG8150. All my photos are printed in a photo labo. (Whitewall). I never print at home.
1. Capture One Pro for Sony
I stopped using lightroom once I took the time to learn this RAW editor. One reason is it has the skin tool to make skin colors the same. Selecting colors and luminosity masks are so easy to use.
You don't need to import or use a database. (which is still the best if and only ifyou tag your pictures to quickly find photos).
The learning curve is more difficult compared to Lightroom CC.
2. Photoshop CC (creative cloud abo)
The standard, the best. It's such a huge tool to make your photos from "OK" to "WOW".
3. Photoshop Plugins
1. DXO Filmpack. This is my final step in photoshop where I do some contrast changes and whereI add grain. I love this software. The final finishing of the edited photo is done in Capture one.
2. On1 RAW. I don't use it anymore. It has become very slow and the support is horrible as they do not respond to my mail. I always send the bug rapports. However there are some great effects inside.
3. NIK collection (bought the DXO version)
4. 3d set a light
This is great 3D simulation studio photo software. The results are stunning. If you want to try something new you can first simulate it. Also a perfect tool the learn the basics of lightning. I can only recommend this software.